Battlefields Tour

Classics master Mr Phillip Saidi recounts how the revival of Battlefields Tours are giving boys the opportunity to experience history first-hand.

 

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After a hiatus during the COVID years, there was great demand for the much beloved Sydney Grammar School Battlefields Tour. So great, in fact, that we took two groups, one starting in Paris, the other in Istanbul.

One highlight of the trip was both groups meeting in the middle in Munich at the world famous Hofbräuhaus, a traditional Bavarian beer hall. Not far away, we saw the white chalk outline of a body on the pavement. Here, marked for posterity, was the spot where Kurt Eisner was assassinated in 1919. His death led to a period of radical instability: some historians argue that it paved the way for Adolf Hitler’s election as Führer of the Nazi Party in 1921 during a meeting at that same Hofbräuhaus. Our learning in Munich cemented our understanding of the interwar years between First World War and Second World War, conflicts which shaped the itinerary of our tour from Gallipoli through Greece to Germany, France and Belgium, a Napoleonic stop at Waterloo, and the Western Front.


Pictured: Commonwealth War Grave

Our expert guide, Gary Traynor, brought stories to life with an acute knowledge of the battlefields at Gallipoli. He could point to an exact spot where the snipers were posted, the sappers dug trenches or the runners were under fire. The boys tasted Gary’s own version of front-line food staples, such as ‘bully beef’ and ‘tack’ biscuits. Slouch hats and rising sun badges became more common as people won rounds of bus quizzes. You may even have spotted us on the television as we attended the Anzac Day Ceremony at Gallipoli or Villers-Bretonneux.


Pictured: A ‘bully beef’ and ‘tack’ buffet

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Many boys said that beholding the wonders of the Hagia Sophia and Sultanahmet Square in Istanbul enraptured them. I personally gazed in awe at the wonders uncovered at the tomb of Philip II of Macedon at Vergina in Northern Greece, such as a diadem with gold leaves so fine they quivered at nearby steps, and a set of royal hoplite armour inset with ivory depictions of famous myths. Even after two millennia, Philip’s son Alexander the Great is still studied as a master general.


Pictured: Group 2 in the trenches

This tour provided a unique opportunity for current boys to reflect and present on the lives of Old Sydneians at Commonwealth War Graves sites. It was an honour to recognise their sacrifice and gain insight into the lives they might have led. It was also wonderful to have Grammar families, boys and staff share their stories and passion for history.


Pictured: Group 1 at Kavala, Greece